Fake Sniper

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Spotting A Fake Sniper

The 91/30 Sniper is considered by many to be the crown jewel of a Mosin Nagant collection. Because of it's relative rarity and it's popularity with collectors, a couple of major importers fabricated these rifles out of surplus parts and standard 91/30 rifles for sale in the US market. These typically sell in the $300-$400 range currently. The biggest challenge to both the beginner and experienced collector is how to tell if a Mosin Nagant Sniper is the real thing.

Even though it's highly unlikely, you may be browsing a pawn shop someday and come upon a dusty M91/30 with a PE scope attached and a price tag under $400. Who knows, maybe some collector who was down on his luck was forced to part with a gem in order to survive. You start doing the mental calculations as to how you are going to pay for it, keep the purchase secret from your significant other and how you are going to sneak it in the house. The problem is, that if you do buy it, you are going to be "tapped" for the next few months and the only way you are going to let that happen is to get the real deal.

This is an issue because over the last 10 years, some of the major distributors manufactured their own M91/30 Snipers and put them on the market. They were in many cases very authentic copies but often left out important details that the real snipers have. What were those details and how do you recognize them? Let's start by breaking the problem down to a few areas:

Types:

There are three basic types of snipers :

Genuine, un-altered, not rebuilt.

These are as they were when they were retired from service without any evidence of rebuild marks.

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Genuine, re-arsenaled or rebuilt and third country production.

These will have rebuild marks, electro-penciled serial numbers on the scope mounts and sometimes the scopes and appear to be as new.

Manufactured, constructed by an importer/distributor or private individual.

These are easy to distinguish by examining the fit and finish of the parts and checking for the presence or absence of arsenal markings and proofs. Check the stock inlet for the scope. Does it look freshly cut? Look for markings that don't belong on a genuine sniper like Finnish "SA" marks. Check the date and determine if it falls within the date range appropriate to the scope. Is the scope, mount and receiver matched by serial number?

Date Ranges

PE - 1932-1936 (PE is focus adjustable)

PEM 1936-1940, 1942 for a short time

PU - 1942-1947

The PU was used until the advent of the SVD issue in 1962-63

Price

Without exception, a genuine Mosin Nagant Sniper will fall into the $600.00 and up range. However, don't go by the price alone. Look for the other indicators such a markings, correct configuration and date ranges appropriate to scope type.

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Fit and Finish

The over all workmanship of a genuine sniper will be a cut above standard 91/30's. The stocks may have repairs if the sniper went through refurb but should not be a finger joined Finn stock. The inlets for the scope mount should not appear freshly cut and should be cut out just enough to allow the proper fit of the mount. Inspect the bolt for evidence of welds or stretching. The sniper bolt body was crafted as a unique unit and the bolt handle should have a uniform diameter. Generally speaking the receiver, if war year produced, should not have the chiseled look of the standard war time 91/30 receivers. The Tula produced rifles will have the well known "Ch" marking on the barrel and both rifles may or may not be marked "MO". The receivers should only be marked with the Tula or Ishevsk markings. The receivers on the PU rifle will be a high walled receiver.

Hardware

The scopes should not be marked Made in Russia or appear to have one end larger than the other as these are commercial scopes.

The scopes will have many different markings consisting of various symbols. They will also often have a serial number stamped on it. Rebuilds may have the number electro-penciled or a number that does not match the receiver. The scope bracket when detached should have had the foot filed to rough zero the mounting system and should be serialized to the rifle either by a stamped or electro-penciled number.

These are just a few things that will help you determine if you are getting a real sniper. If you still have questions, feel free to post them on the forums.