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FAQ
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How do I load my Mosin-Nagant with a stripper clip, [charger]?
- What is
the definition of Curios or Relics firearms and what is an
antique firearm?
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What is corrosive ammunition and what should I know and do about
it?
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How quickly
can the rust cause a problem?
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Does my Mosin have a
safety?
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What is the
best way to remove cosmoline?
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How do I disassemble
the bolt?
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What is a "bound book"?
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How do you
pronounce "Mosin Nagant"?
Answer:
Place the 5 round charger clip over the mag
well with your thumb over the rim of the cartridge pushing down &
your index finger under the bullet tip slightly lifting up & guiding
down as well. While loading, keep in mind to place the rim of the
top round in front of the rim of the round beneath it.
Answer:
Here is the definition of Firearms Curios or
Relics from the Code Federal Regulations
27CFR478.11:
Firearms which are of special interest to
collectors by reason of some quality other than is associated
with firearms intended for sporting use or as offensive or
defensive weapons. To be recognized as curios or relics,
firearms must fall within one of the following categories:
(a) Firearms which were manufactured at least 50 years prior to
the current date, but not including replicas thereof;
(b) Firearms which are certified by the curator of a municipal,
State, or Federal museum which exhibits firearms to be curios or
relics of museum interest; and
(c) Any other firearms which derive a substantial part of their
monetary value from the fact that they are novel, rare, bizarre,
or because of their association with some historical figure,
period, or event. Proof of qualification of a particular firearm
under this category may be established by evidence of present
value and evidence that like firearms are not available except
as collector's items, or that the value of like firearms
available in ordinary commercial channels is substantially less.
Note that if a
particular firearm
was made 50 or more years ago, it qualifies as a
Relic per
subparagraph (a) but that does not mean that all firearms of a
model year qualify.
For example, not all Model 1894 Winchesters would qualify
as a relic. Only
those actually made 50 or more years longer ago would be relics.
You would have to see if a later made Model 1894 qualifies as a
Curio by checking
the
ATF Curios or Relics List.
This is the definition of an Antique Firearm:
(a) Any firearm (including any firearm
with a matchlock, flintlock, percussion cap, or similar type of
ignition system) manufactured in or before 1898; and (b) any
replica of any firearm described in paragraph (a) of this
definition if such replica (1) is not designed or redesigned for
using rimfire or conventional centerfire fixed ammunition, or
(2) uses rimfire or conventional centerfire fixed ammunition
which is no longer manufactured in the United States and which
is not readily available in the ordinary channels of commercial
trade.
As mentioned above, the date the particular
rifle was made is what matters, not the model year. Thus a Mauser
Model 98 made in 1898 would be an antique; one made during WWI or
WWII would not be an Antique but would qualify as a Relic.
Answer:
Corrosive ammunition has primers that leave a potassium chloride (a
type of salt) residue in the rifle after the cartridge is fired. The
salt attracts water and the water causes the metal to rust.
Most foreign military 7.62x54R surplus ammunition is “corrosive”.
Always assume military surplus 7.62x54R ammunition is corrosive or
risk a rusted and pitted barrel.
The salt can be cleaned out of the bore by running water soaked
patches straight through the bore. Do not pull the patches back –
let them fall off when through the bore. Some shooters like to use
an ammonia based cleaner (which is mostly water). Others like to
pour boiling hot water through the bore.
Next run a couple of dry patches through the bore and clean the bore
with a regular bore cleaning solvent such as Hoppe’s No. 9. This
will remove the other types of residue from the bore.
Clean the other metal surfaces such as on the bolt, extended
bayonet, etc. using first water or a water based cleaner as above,
and then regular solvent.
Finish with a light coating of oil on all surfaces.
Always run a dry patch or two through the bore before shooting the
rife.
Answer:
In a humid climate rust can start to form in
an uncleaned bore in as little as 15 minutes. Active rust in a bore
can be cleaned with a good bore brush and some solvent after some
boiling water has been run through it to remove any salts that might
be causing the rust in the first place. Once the bore is clear of
the rust itself you will be left with the pits the rust caused in
the metal, this is metal the rust ate, and what causes a bore to
look dark after it has been cleaned of normal fouling. The pits can
effect accuracy for the negative, but not always if they are very
small, and well away from the muzzle, but they will not cause any
unsafe operating conditions so long as they have not massively
eroded one or more areas to the point the barrel is thinned, and it
would take underwater immersion for years to do that, or poor
storage for many decades in a damp place. Sounds like your rifle
has the common sort of pitting often found in milsurps that shot
nothing but corrosive ammo for all of their service lives. Scrub
it, use JB bore paste, and fire it (this will also loosen stubborn
deposits in the lands of the bore after the bulk has been scrubbed
away)
If you live a good distance from the range, and can't clean the
rifle within a half hour after shooting run an oil soaked patch
through the bore after you are done shooting, and I mean oil of the
motor oil type, not WD40, that will keep the rust cooties away until
you get home and do the full cleaning. An oil patch will not hold
off the rust for long, so don't delay cleaning once you get home. a
few hours tops.
Answer:
Yes; with the bolt closed, pull back on the
bolt and rotate counter-clockwise and release. Your rifle is now
"safe". First place the butt plate of the rifle in the crook of the
elbow, then pull back on the cocking piece and rotate it
counter-clockwise about 45 degrees. Special care should be taken
when taking it off safe, as it is possible to have an Accidental
Discharge. Have the butt plate in the crook of the elbow again, and
be sure to have the muzzle pointed in a safe direction. It's best to
practice with a firearm you personally have assured is UNLOADED.
While using the safety, ALWAYS treat your
firearm as though it does not have a safety and is loaded.
Answer:
There are two proven ways to remove cosmoline
from your stock.
One way is to thoroughly wrap your stock in newspaper and place it
in a large/sturdy black plastic garbage bag. Seal it up well and
place it on the dash of your vehicle on a warm sunny day. Leave it
there for at least two hours or more. This will "bake" the stock &
heat up the cosmoline causing it to melt out of the wood & into the
newspaper. Simply remove the stock & wipe it down. If necessary,
repeat the procedure.
The other way is to use your oven at home. Make & place a tinfoil
tray in the bottom rack of the oven & turn the oven on low (No more
than 150 degrees). Put the stock in for about 20 minutes. Once it is
warmed up, carefully remove it & wipe it down. Repeat the process
until the results are satisfactory.
Answer:
Answer:
http://www.atf.gov/firearms/faq/faq2.htm#e1
A "bound book" is a permanently bound book or an orderly
arrangement of loose-leaf pages which must be maintained on the
business premises. The format must follow that prescribed in the
regulations, and the pages must be numbered consecutively. [27 CFR
478.121 and 478.125] (This is taken directly from the ATF website
shown above!!!)
Back to Top
How do you pronounce
"Mosin Nagant"?
Answer:
Place the emphasis on bold syllables:
moye seen nah gon
Back to Top
Copyright © 2001 BobW & RMNP. All rights reserved.
Revised:
01/02/10.
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